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3-star Scottish gully on Ben Nevis graded VI/6. Pitch 1 being the crux pitch.
L#|4+ |60 m| You quickly come up to an overhanging section which you pass by the wall on the left (hydrographic right) to then plunge your tools over the overhang, bridge the gap with your right foot and move up and over the overhang. A "second crux" with a similar overhang higher up follows the same tactic. Belay on ice screws or in-situ abalakov if lucky.
L#| 3|60 m| Easy climbing until the rope runs out, you can also stop after 25 m to a small ledge with a piece of rock that takes rock gear.
L#| 3 |80+m| Easy ground, but no obvious place to make a good belay before an easy but steep snow slope which turns left to reach the spur by which you reach the Northeast Buttress. Simulclimbing might be an option here.
Reach the Northeast Buttress by moving up the spur. Climb the Northeast Buttress to the summit or climb down to reach the Minus Two Gully top belay. Abseil down Minus 2 or down the Northeast Buttress.
Abseiling Minus Two: the first belay you're abseiling towards is on the left (hydrographic) and the abseil is approximately 62 m, so just short. Be aware of that!
Ice screws (short ones), and maybe some rock gear if there is not much ice around to protect the crux sections of the first pitch.
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Источник: camptocamp.org · текст под лицензией CC BY-SA 4.0