Il Fifone

Approach 30 min

Park near the end of the road 'Via Barcarello' in Sferracavallo. Take the road at nr. 61, follow it all the way up until you pass the last house. The road becomes a path, follow it (below a fence). Get on a trail more uphill until a branch-off to the right to Santa Margherita. Pass below the promontory of the west ridge and go up to find the start of the route. Indicated 'Fifone' on the wall.

Route · 5/8h

L# | 5b | 30 m | Straight up, stay left of the slab. Belay just above palm tree on comfortable bolted ring & sling
L# | 6a+ (5c A0) | 25 m | Start slightly towards the right on the slabs. Traverse to the left for bolt with sling. Climb straight up to another sling (one of the hardest sections of the whole climb, can pass A0). Then traverse left to the belay.
L# | 6a | 30 m | Go up, after a few meters pass to the left of the big block in front of you. Climb on top of it then when arriving at white rocks traverse to the left (peg) and continue to the belay in a dihedral.
L# | 5b | 15 m | Traverse to the left towards a sling. Pass the ridge and continue upwards until the belay. Slings on the edge but easier climbing 1m to the left.
L# | 5c | 30 m | Start on the easy slab, with bolts and a sling. Cross the ridge to the right directly after 2nd bolt. Traverse through a fixed sling until you arrive at the crack (#2) and go all the way up to the belay.
L# | 6a | 25 m | Pitch with red quartz. First part is dusty, straight up (left of the big block). 2nd part right steep crack, pass a peg and traverse to the left to reach the belay below the first roof (far and creepy).
L# | 5c+ (A0) | 15 m | Short but pumpy route. Traverse back to the right below the roof, reach up (can place small cam) to get the bolt. Continue up to fight your way out of the first roof. Awkward climbing! Belay below 2nd roof.
L# | 5c | 35 m | Amazing pitch! Traverse easy to the right until you reach the sling. Scramble your way between the sharp rocks (take care for rope drag). Climb up in the crack (#3) - or using a tree trunk. Use some slings along the way up this beautiful wall.
L# | 5b+ | 35 m | Final pitch to big lunch ledge. Go up on the dihedral, which gets you to the ledge quickly. Go up slightly to the right (careful, runout!) on a path until the belay (2m left of a cordalette, below the cave).
L# | 6b/A0 | 20 m | Straight up to a peg, traverse left to another peg (6b/A0) and continue to the belay in the cave (sling on the left, no ring).
L# | 5b+ | 20 m | Escape the cave to the right side (bolt with sling). Carry on on the slab to the belay.
L# | 5c+ | 30 m | Straight up on razorsharp edges with fine balance (5c+). Continue to slings on a tree. Pass below them and traverse easily 10m to the left to belay on ring + sling on the edge.
L# | 6a | 40 m | Traverse left to the white 'statue', climb up (5a). Fight up through the corner (6a) with some awkward moves. Continue below the roof to a sling (5c) where you can go either straight up or to the left. Keep going up to slings or build intermediate belay on gear.

Scramble another 50 m to the top on easy terrain.

Descent · 60min

Enjoy the view! Pass left on the grassy/stony terrain towards the higher summit. Before ascending that you reach the start of the 'windy valley' on your left side (big stone man). Go down a small steep path. You can either stay right towards rocky promontory or left through the woods and next to a stone wall.

After this zone go downhill over a stony lawn. Cross a first hiking trail, on the second trail go to the right until you reach a clear steep path down (stone man) until the gravel road, which brings you back to the beach (left).

• 50 m double rope
• set of friends (up to #3)
• some nuts optional

• Beautiful, sharp rock
• 6a climbing required
• Good protection can usually be placed
• In the shade until 2PM

8/1/2017
Heinz Grill, Martin Heiss, Florian Kluckner