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Climb the obvious gully of loose rock and then turn straight up through the blocks.
Reach the col and follow the ridge line North to the summit.
From Plan de l'Aiguille, cross the Blatière glacier and the Nantillons glacier.
Reach the bottom of the gully which is dry in the beginning of the season.
Climb the loose rock gully following the gully's direction.
When it steepens, turn slightly right to climb the more stable rock.
Zig-zag the grass, climbing boulders as encountered.
About 100 metres below the tower, climb the solid rock straight up (III+).
Reach the tower and follow the ridge line towards the North to reach the summit.
From the summit, descend on the Nantillons side by 2 short abseils (20 and 25m) or down climb a gully (3b, 50m), then a system of ledges and little steps lead to the Col de la Buche.
Go down from the col keeping at first to the true left bank, then to the right and finally back to the true left side again. Careful with stonefall.
Standard glacier gear.
A single rope of 50 meters is enough.
A set of friends (medium-size) and/or nuts.
Loose rock at the bottom.
5.7.2020: Jon MURUA
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0