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West Buttress

2A | PD | II Edit route
The West Buttress is the standard and most frequently climbed route on Denali. It is a long high-altitude glacier route with sustained objective hazards rather than technical rock or ice difficulty. Crevasse travel, avalanche exposure on some slopes, and severe cold are the main concerns. The route typically uses established camps and fixed lines on the upper mountain. Although technically moderate, the altitude and weather make it a serious expedition climb. It is the best-documented route on the peak and the one most commonly described in guidebooks and park literature.

Route Outline

Kahiltna Glacier base camp or airstrip
Move up the Kahiltna Glacier to 7,800 ft camp and then 11,000 ft camp
Climb Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, and the fixed-line section to 14,200 ft camp
Ascend the Autobahn and Denali Pass to high camp near 17,200 ft
Summit via the West Buttress and return the same way

More routes on Denali

West Rib

4B | D+ | IV/V
The West Rib is a major alpine route on Denali and is significantly more committing than the West Buttress. It involves steeper snow and ice climbing, with more complex route-finding and greater avalanche and serac exposure. The line is a classic objective on the mountain and is well documented in climbing literature. Conditions can vary widely, and the route demands strong glacier travel and mixed alpine skills. It is generally considered a serious expedition route rather than a standard ascent. The upper mountain remains exposed to extreme weather and altitude.
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Cassin Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The Cassin Ridge is Denali's most famous technical alpine route. It is a long, steep mixed climb with sustained rock, ice, and snow climbing on a very exposed line. The route is far more difficult than the standard routes and requires strong alpine technique and excellent judgment. Objective hazards include avalanches, rockfall, icefall, and severe weather. It is one of the classic big alpine routes in North America and is extensively documented. The climb is serious, committing, and usually attempted by highly experienced teams.
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Muldrow Glacier Route

2A | PD | II
The Muldrow Glacier Route is a historic and documented route on Denali's north side. It is primarily a glacier expedition with long distances, crevasse navigation, and complex route-finding. Compared with the West Buttress, it is less commonly used and can be more remote and logistically demanding. The route is not especially technical, but it is serious because of its length, isolation, and glacier hazards. Weather and snow conditions strongly affect progress. It is one of the established named routes on the mountain.
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North Buttress

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The North Buttress is a major technical route on Denali and is well known in the climbing record. It is a steep and committing alpine line with mixed climbing and significant objective hazards. The route is much more difficult than the standard glacier routes and requires solid ice and mixed skills. Exposure to avalanche, rockfall, and weather is substantial. It is a serious big-mountain climb with a strong alpine character. Documentation of the route appears in major Denali climbing references.
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