The Cassin Ridge is Denali's most famous technical alpine route. It is a long, steep mixed climb with sustained rock, ice, and snow climbing on a very exposed line. The route is far more difficult than the standard routes and requires strong alpine technique and excellent judgment. Objective hazards include avalanches, rockfall, icefall, and severe weather. It is one of the classic big alpine routes in North America and is extensively documented. The climb is serious, committing, and usually attempted by highly experienced teams.
Route Outline
Approach via the Kahiltna Glacier to the base of the South Face
Climb the lower snow and ice slopes onto the Cassin Ridge
Follow the ridge through steep mixed sections and rock bands
Continue to the upper ridge and summit slopes of Denali
Descend by the West Buttress or another established descent line if conditions allow