The Biancograt is the classic and most famous route on Piz Bernina. It is a long alpine ridge climb on mixed snow, ice, and rock, with sustained exposure and significant objective hazard from changing conditions. The route is technically moderate by alpine standards but demands excellent route-finding, early starts, and secure movement on steep snow and narrow crest sections. The upper ridge is often corniced and can be very serious in poor visibility or soft snow. It is commonly climbed from the Tschierva Hut, with the summit day involving a long and committing outing. This is the standard documented mountaineering route to the highest peak in the Eastern Alps.
