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Biancograt

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The Biancograt is the classic and most famous route on Piz Bernina. It is a long alpine ridge climb on mixed snow, ice, and rock, with sustained exposure and significant objective hazard from changing conditions. The route is technically moderate by alpine standards but demands excellent route-finding, early starts, and secure movement on steep snow and narrow crest sections. The upper ridge is often corniced and can be very serious in poor visibility or soft snow. It is commonly climbed from the Tschierva Hut, with the summit day involving a long and committing outing. This is the standard documented mountaineering route to the highest peak in the Eastern Alps.

Route Outline

Pontresina / Morteratsch area -> Tschierva Hut
Tschierva Hut -> Fuorcla Prievlusa -> Biancograt ridge
Biancograt -> Piz Bernina summit
Descent usually via the same route or over the Spalla/normal descent variations

More routes on Piz Bernina

Spalla Route

3A | AD | III
The Spalla Route is a well-known normal route from the Italian side, usually accessed from the Marco e Rosa Hut. It is a high alpine snow-and-ice ascent with some rock sections near the upper mountain, and it is generally less aesthetic than the Biancograt but still serious. The route is exposed to crevasses, serac and snow conditions, and requires glacier travel competence. It is a common way to reach the summit when conditions on the Biancograt are poor or when approaching from the Bernina Pass/Diavolezza side. The route is typically climbed as a hut-to-hut alpine day or as part of a longer traverse. It is a documented and established summit route on Piz Bernina.
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