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Southwest Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI Edit route
The Southwest Ridge is one of the classic documented alpine routes on Yerupajá. It is a serious high-altitude climb with sustained steep snow, ice, and mixed terrain. The route is exposed and objective hazards are significant, including avalanche danger, rockfall, and cornices. Conditions can change rapidly in the Huayhuash, making route-finding and timing important. It is generally regarded as a demanding technical ascent rather than a trekking objective. Because of the mountain’s remoteness and altitude, acclimatization and strong alpine experience are essential.

Route Outline

Base camp in the Huayhuash -> approach to the southwest side of Yerupajá
Climb the southwest ridge and its mixed snow/ice sections
Continue on steep alpine terrain toward the upper ridge
Reach the summit of Nevado Yerupajá
Descend by the same route

More routes on Nevado Yerupajá

North Face

6B | ED2 | VII
The North Face is a major technical line on Yerupajá and is documented among the peak’s established alpine routes. It is significantly steeper and more committing than the ridge routes. The face typically involves sustained ice and mixed climbing at high altitude. Objective hazards include avalanches, serac or snow instability, and rockfall. The route demands efficient movement, strong protection skills, and careful weather assessment. It is a serious expedition-style climb in a remote part of the Cordillera Huayhuash.
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