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North Face

6B | ED2 | VII Edit route
The North Face is a major technical line on Yerupajá and is documented among the peak’s established alpine routes. It is significantly steeper and more committing than the ridge routes. The face typically involves sustained ice and mixed climbing at high altitude. Objective hazards include avalanches, serac or snow instability, and rockfall. The route demands efficient movement, strong protection skills, and careful weather assessment. It is a serious expedition-style climb in a remote part of the Cordillera Huayhuash.

Route Outline

Base camp in the Huayhuash -> approach beneath the north face
Ascend the steep north face on snow and ice
Gain the upper mountain and connect to the summit ridge
Reach the summit of Nevado Yerupajá
Descend by the chosen descent line or the ascent route

More routes on Nevado Yerupajá

Southwest Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
The Southwest Ridge is one of the classic documented alpine routes on Yerupajá. It is a serious high-altitude climb with sustained steep snow, ice, and mixed terrain. The route is exposed and objective hazards are significant, including avalanche danger, rockfall, and cornices. Conditions can change rapidly in the Huayhuash, making route-finding and timing important. It is generally regarded as a demanding technical ascent rather than a trekking objective. Because of the mountain’s remoteness and altitude, acclimatization and strong alpine experience are essential.
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