The south face is a more committing and technical way to the summit than the normal route. It is a classic alpine face climb with steep snow and ice sections, mixed passages, and significant exposure. Conditions are highly dependent on temperature and snow stability, and the face can become dangerous with warming or fresh snowfall. Parties need solid cramponing, ice-axe technique, and efficient movement on steep terrain. It is generally less straightforward to navigate than the normal route. Descent is commonly made by the normal route if conditions allow.
Route Outline
Approach from the Glacier Blanc side or the Pré de Madame Carle area
Gain the base of the south face
Climb the steep snow/ice and mixed terrain of the face
Reach the upper ridge near the summit
Summit of Barre des Écrins
Descend by the normal route or the ascent line, depending on conditions
