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North Face Route

5A | TD | V Edit route
The north face is a major alpine objective and substantially more serious than the standard route. It is a steep, technical face climb with sustained ice and mixed climbing, and it is exposed to objective hazards such as rockfall, icefall, and changing snow conditions. The route demands strong technical ability, efficient protection, and good judgment about conditions. It is typically attempted by experienced alpinists only. The line is much less forgiving than the normal route and may require a complex descent plan. It is a true high-mountain face climb rather than a glacier walk.

Route Outline

Approach from the northern side of the massif
Reach the base of the north face
Climb the steep ice and mixed terrain of the face
Exit onto the upper mountain near the summit ridge
Summit of Barre des Écrins
Descend by the safest available line, often not the ascent route

More routes on Les Écrins

Normal Route via the Glacier Blanc and the Brèche Lory

3A | AD | III
This is the classic and most frequently climbed route on Barre des Écrins. It is a serious high-mountain glacier and ridge ascent, with objective hazards from crevasses, serac exposure, and rockfall. The route is usually done with an early start and often from a high refuge on the Glacier Blanc. The upper section involves sustained mixed climbing on the south ridge and can require careful route-finding in poor visibility. Conditions vary strongly with snow cover and late-season rock exposure. It is a long alpine day even for strong parties.
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South Face Route

4A | D | IV
The south face is a more committing and technical way to the summit than the normal route. It is a classic alpine face climb with steep snow and ice sections, mixed passages, and significant exposure. Conditions are highly dependent on temperature and snow stability, and the face can become dangerous with warming or fresh snowfall. Parties need solid cramponing, ice-axe technique, and efficient movement on steep terrain. It is generally less straightforward to navigate than the normal route. Descent is commonly made by the normal route if conditions allow.
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