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South Face direct

4A | D | IV Edit route
Approach Time
1-2 h
The south face direct is a documented harder variation on Dent du Géant. It is steeper and more sustained than the normal route, with more demanding rock climbing and greater exposure. The line is on compact granite and can require careful protection and efficient movement. It is significantly more committing than the standard ascent. As with all routes on this peak, the descent is typically by rappel and can be affected by crowding and loose rock in places. It is suitable only for experienced climbers comfortable on alpine rock.

Route Outline

Refuge Torino or Pointe Helbronner area -> approach beneath the south face
Climb directly up the south face
Gain the upper ridge near the summit
Finish on the summit block
Descend by rappels or the normal descent line

More routes on Dent du Géant

Normal route via the South Face and South-West Ridge

3A | AD | III
Approach Time
1-2 h
This is the standard and best-known way to climb Dent du Géant. The route is a short but serious alpine rock climb on very exposed granite, with a reputation for being much harder than its modest length suggests. The main difficulties are steep climbing, route-finding on the upper face, and long exposed sections on the ridge. In normal conditions it is climbed with ropes and often involves fixed anchors or rappel descents. Objective hazards include rockfall, weather change, and congestion because it is a very popular summit. It is not a hiking route and requires solid alpine rock-climbing experience.
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