Pick a Peak - list of mountains Home
← Dent du Géant

Normal route via the South Face and South-West Ridge

3A | AD | III Edit route
Approach Time
1-2 h
This is the standard and best-known way to climb Dent du Géant. The route is a short but serious alpine rock climb on very exposed granite, with a reputation for being much harder than its modest length suggests. The main difficulties are steep climbing, route-finding on the upper face, and long exposed sections on the ridge. In normal conditions it is climbed with ropes and often involves fixed anchors or rappel descents. Objective hazards include rockfall, weather change, and congestion because it is a very popular summit. It is not a hiking route and requires solid alpine rock-climbing experience.

Route Outline

Refuge Torino or Pointe Helbronner area -> Col des Flambeaux / Glacier du Géant approach
Cross to the base of Dent du Géant's south face
Climb the south face to the south-west ridge
Follow the ridge to the summit
Descend by the same route, usually with rappels

More routes on Dent du Géant

South Face direct

4A | D | IV
Approach Time
1-2 h
The south face direct is a documented harder variation on Dent du Géant. It is steeper and more sustained than the normal route, with more demanding rock climbing and greater exposure. The line is on compact granite and can require careful protection and efficient movement. It is significantly more committing than the standard ascent. As with all routes on this peak, the descent is typically by rappel and can be affected by crowding and loose rock in places. It is suitable only for experienced climbers comfortable on alpine rock.
Details →