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South Face

5A | TD | V Edit route
The south face is a major alpine objective on the mountain and is documented as a much harder alternative to the normal route. It is a steep, serious face climb with sustained technical difficulties. Conditions can vary widely, with exposed ice, snow, and mixed climbing. The face is exposed to rockfall, avalanche danger, and rapid weather changes. Because of the altitude and remoteness, the route demands strong expedition skills and careful acclimatization. It is significantly more committing than the northwest ridge.

Route Outline

Base camp in the south side of the mountain
Approach the south face and establish camp
Climb steep snow, ice, and mixed sections on the face
Gain the upper mountain and summit ridge
Summit and descend by the chosen line or normal route

More routes on Pik Imeni Ismail Samani

Northwest Ridge (normal route)

3A | AD | III
This is the best-known and most commonly documented climbing line on Pik Imeni Ismail Samani. It follows the northwest ridge, generally regarded as the normal route to the summit. The route is a long high-altitude alpine climb on snow, ice, and mixed terrain. Objective hazards include crevasses, avalanche-prone slopes, and severe weather typical of the Pamir. The route is serious mainly because of altitude, remoteness, and the sustained nature of the climb. It is usually climbed from a high camp or base camp with a long summit day.
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