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Northwest Ridge (normal route)

3A | AD | III Edit route
This is the best-known and most commonly documented climbing line on Pik Imeni Ismail Samani. It follows the northwest ridge, generally regarded as the normal route to the summit. The route is a long high-altitude alpine climb on snow, ice, and mixed terrain. Objective hazards include crevasses, avalanche-prone slopes, and severe weather typical of the Pamir. The route is serious mainly because of altitude, remoteness, and the sustained nature of the climb. It is usually climbed from a high camp or base camp with a long summit day.

Route Outline

Base camp / high camp in the Pamir
Glacier approach to the northwest ridge
Climb mixed snow and ice slopes on the ridge
Continue to the summit ridge and summit
Descend by the same route

More routes on Pik Imeni Ismail Samani

South Face

5A | TD | V
The south face is a major alpine objective on the mountain and is documented as a much harder alternative to the normal route. It is a steep, serious face climb with sustained technical difficulties. Conditions can vary widely, with exposed ice, snow, and mixed climbing. The face is exposed to rockfall, avalanche danger, and rapid weather changes. Because of the altitude and remoteness, the route demands strong expedition skills and careful acclimatization. It is significantly more committing than the northwest ridge.
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