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From Finhaut to the start of the ridge, the approach is straight forward: follow the trail, up to the anti avalanche barriers.
Starting from the anti avalanche, hike towards the ridge. There’s no real path or trail as such, so you have to scramble your way up through alpine vegetation. The higher you reach, the rockier it gets, and the sharper the ridge.
At the 2419 m point on the ridge, we rappelled down. For the next wall, keep to the rightmost side of it, as the rock on the left is quite unstable and loose. Next wall can be avoided by climbing around it to the left.
Then climb up mostly on the ridge, to reach the final wall that leads to the summit. On that final part, we climbed an obvious chimney, which is the crux. And then directly to the summit.
40 m past the summit, there's an anchor to rappel down, half way through the slab. But for the first rappel, you'll need to set up your own anchor (unless you find one :smile: ).
Then it’s all the way down to Col du Fenestral, and from there hike straight down to the valley.
- 40 m rope.
- slings and cords, for adding protections and setting up anchors
The GPX track was produced by hand, and so needs to be taken with a pinch of salt.
Although the route is not very severe, opportunities to place protections (friends / slings) are not many. It also requires some mountaineering knack and experience to find your way up.
Pick a date to see who is going
Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0