Olhukuka Route — Margherita Peak | Pick a Peak
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Olhukuka Route

Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 300 m
Orientation
SW
Equipment
P2
Free climbing
4c

Rock climbing route (130m). 4 pitches (IV).

The route starts at about 4800m, in the left margin of the Margherita glacier. Exit the glacier to the right to enter an evident face (climbing grade 3/3+). Pitch 1 (3; 35m), pitch 2 (3+, 25m), pitch 3 (4c, 35m), pitch 4 (3+, 35m).

Gear

In the photo, the red itinerary was opened from below and bolts are located where marked in the photo. The blue section, opened from above two days later, contains two belays and a few bolts in between. Friends and nuts recommended.

Route history

Given the opening of a crevase in an exposed section (just before entering the final section on the rock) in the upper part of Margherita glacier, the normal route to Margherita Peak was temporarily closed by the Uganda Wildlife Authority in 2024. The climbing route "Olhukuka route" is an alternative to the normal ascent on the glacier.

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    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0