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Mixed alpine climbing route in a high-mountain environment. Bolted line, but with a remote and alpine character; some protection bolts are quite widely spaced.
From Arolla, follow the cross-country ski track and continue towards the base of the obvious face of Roc Noir.
L#1 | M4 | 60 m | Start at a belay left of the cone. Delicate climbing on a mossy slab.
L#2 | WI3 | 40 m | Transfer pitch on snow, ending on a short ice section. Belay on the right side of the ice.
L#3 | M5+ | 35 m | Runout exit to the right on slab terrain. Delicate climbing with widely spaced bolts.
L#4 | M6 | 30 m | More vertical pitch with sections of questionable rock quality.
L#5 | M5+ | 20 m | Short but sustained pitch on loose rock.
L#6 | M8/A0 | 25 m | Crux pitch of the route. Depending on conditions, it can be easier to climb on hands rather than with ice tools.
L#7 | M4 | 35 m | Easier and more slabby pitch.
L#8 | M5 | 35 m | Starts easier, then steepens toward the end with Dülfer climbing on fragile sections. Caution required.
L#9 | M7/A0 | 45 m | Longest pitch of the route. A wide traversing crack, rarely steep, often climbed in Dülfer style without using tools.
- 1 series friends BD 0.3 to 3 and 1 offset
- 14 quickdraws
First Ascent: March 3rd to 5th and 9th to 11th, 2026 - Max Kilcoyne, Marco Malcangi, Fay Manners
Pick a date to see who is going
Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0