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← Gasherbrum I

Normal Route (Southwest Ridge)

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI Edit route
This is the standard and best-known route on Gasherbrum I, first climbed in 1958 by an American team via the Southwest Ridge. It is a very high-altitude, technically serious route with sustained snow, ice, and mixed climbing, plus major objective hazards from weather and avalanche conditions.

Route Outline

Concordia / Gasherbrum base camp -> advance camps on the Southwest Ridge
Climb mixed snow and ice slopes to the upper ridge
Continue via high camps and the summit ridge
Summit of Gasherbrum I
Descend by the same route

More routes on Gasherbrum I

Japanese Route (West Face)

6B | ED2 | VII
The Japanese Route is a documented alternative line on Gasherbrum I, known for its steep and demanding West Face climbing. It is significantly more difficult and committing than the normal route, with sustained technical difficulties at extreme altitude.
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