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Normal Route from Klein Matterhorn

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Ascent Time
3-4 h
Descent Time
2-3 h
This is the standard and by far the most frequently climbed route on Breithorn. It is a glacier ascent with generally straightforward terrain, but it still requires full alpine equipment and glacier travel skills. The route is usually done from the Klein Matterhorn cable car station, which makes the mountain one of the most accessible 4000-m peaks in the Alps. Crevasse danger can vary with season and conditions, especially later in summer. The final slopes to the summit are broad and usually moderate in angle. Despite the modest technical difficulty, altitude and weather are the main objective hazards.

Route Outline

Klein Matterhorn station
Breithorn Plateau / easy glacier terrain
West summit slopes
Summit of Breithorn
Return by the ascent route

More routes on Breithorn

West Ridge from the Breithorn Plateau

2A | PD | II
The west ridge is a documented alpine line on Breithorn, generally climbed in conjunction with access from the Breithorn Plateau. It is not a rock route in the classic sense, but a snow and glacier ridge with modest mountaineering difficulty. The route is typically easier than many classic alpine ridges, though route-finding and snow conditions matter. Exposure is limited compared with more serious alpine objectives, but cornices and hard snow can increase difficulty. It is best treated as a mountaineering route rather than a hike because of glacier travel and summit conditions. Exact timings are less consistently documented than for the normal route.
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