N-Ridge

Approach · 1h

From the parking in Lüsens, follow the road leading S into the valley. When the road ends, continue following the marked trail towards Westfalenhaus until you pass pylons of the cable car (ca. 1975). From there, turn left (S, towards the ridge) and continue in general pathless (some traces) on steep grass up to ca. 2150.

N-Ridge · 4h

A first rock barrier with a flatter grass section above, well visible from far away, blocks now the direct ascend. This barrier is circumvented by traversing quite far to the left to find an easier option to reach the grass section above and then traversing back to the right (see picture, also cairns indicate the way). Then, follow more or less the ridge to the summit where some difficulties are circumvented to the left (E). Some cairns indicate the way. If the path is chosen well, the difficulties never exceed II+. They are fairly spread out over the whole ridge with many easier (walkable) sections in-between.

Descent · Normal Route, 4h

Overall, many cairns help to navigate on the normal route. From the summit, follow the S-ridge (I+) until one can easily put foot on the Rotgrat glacier. Traverse the quite steep glacier (crampons and ice axe required) to the ESE leaving it at ca. 3050. Continue traversing some rock/snow to the SSE without loosing elevation. A huge cairns indicates where to descend onto the Lüsener glacier via the Plattige Wand (I+). Follow the flat glacier on its left bank until one reaches the marked hiking trail at 2800. Follow the scenic trail down to Lüsens, passing a newly installed bridge over a water fall.

• The length (especially the length of the difficulties) should not be underestimated. The specified time assumes efficient progress on the ridge without a rope and can vary a lot.
• Finding the start of the ridge with the circumvention of the first rock barrier is not trivial.
• The normal route down is also not so trivial to find but has many cairns. If you do not see any, you're probably wrong.
• The ridge can also be used for the descend but is probably as long as for the ascend.

1^st course (descent) : 1^st September 1877 - Ludwig Purtscheller, Franz Rofner (guide).