Les petits tucs

• Approach**: 5min from Refuge de Sorellier to the left side of South face, just before remarkable "rockfall zone". Climbing up 3b terrain from left side to reach grassy ledge (belay one bolt one peg on the left of the ledge) then traverse the grassy ledge to the right to reach first bolt of the 6a pitch.

L1:
From the bolt climbing up few bolts (ca.15m) to the good belay with 2 bolts. 6a

L2:
From the belay climbing to the left and up to reach crux section of the 7b (good protected with bolts). After that climbing further up through commiting 6c with quite spaced bolts (in one hard section coming close to the bolts from 7a) and then diagonally to the right through still commiting 6b+/6c part with runout and not well protectable to the bolt and then through an old peg to the belay. 7b, commiting 6c obl. Ca. 45m

L3:
Starting frome the left of belay up through 4 bolts and a bit grassy/bushy crack to the small ledge (bolt) then a bit to the left through peg, and further left diagonal ramp, then up to the bolt, then two ways: straight up through a bit chossy rock or around from the right to the belay. 6b, ca.20m

L3:
Up from belay and slightly diagonally to the right Following kind-of crack system and very few and spaced bolts and one peg and up to the KIND-OF belay - one bolt with old sling. 6b, ca. 20m

Here we ended the climb leaving carabiner to abseil back to the previous belay.
We did not noticed any bolts on 5c section and it was not very inviting in case of protection ;) we are interested to hear comments of someone climbing it to the top.

14 quickdraws, 1 set friends from micro(evtl nuts) to BD2. To protect runouts in badly protectable rock in the upper part of 7b pitch, and parts of commiting 6b pitches pegs could be recommended.

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The route did not look much climbed, which was noticeable by some "sandy", chossy surface of the granite, and some plants in the very few cracks. Generally hard section of the route is very technical slab climbing on almost non existing holds and same look like commiting further 6c part with a lot of slopers. To enjoy the route you need great level of sport slab climbing and experience in bold runout section in commiting lower grades.

From guidebook:
LES PETITS TUCS
Pierre Schram, Thierry Volpiatto, 1982.
120m,niv 6c, 7b max, 6c obl.

Voie difficile; l'équipement a été partiellement repris par Pascal Junique, qui laisse les pas durs obligatoires...
ENG:
Difficult route; the equipment was partially reworked by Pascal Junique, who left the required hard steps.