German Gully Direct

The route follows the German Gully but splits to the left (direct) in the third pitch.

L# | 60°/AI2 | 60m | Easy snow/ice slope to the beginning of the German Gully (two possible belays).
L# | 60°/M4 | 60m | Enjoyable mixed gully. Belay at the exit of rock section.
L# | 60°/AI2 | 40m | Easy snow field slightly to the left and then direct (the German Gully goes firstly straight and then right around a distinct boulder). Belay at the end of snow field on a rock.
L# | 85-90°/M5+ | 40m | Two steps of M4 then 10m easy snow field to reach a vertical rock section. Then climb 20m vertical sustained drytool M5+ with difficult left foot steps. There are two in-situ slings in the upper part of the difficult section. Then easy finish, 10m of M3, to reach a belay on a rock.

You can abseil down from here or continue up to the top of the Triangle (possibly rejoin the upper part of the normal variant of the German Gully).

• 5 ice screws
• 3 mid-size cams
• 3 slings