Northeast face

Beautiful hanging névé, quite exposed but very classy

Route to do in 2 days to shorten the approach and start the face as early as possible for good snow conditions, because from the start of the summer season the névé gets the sun from 4:30 in the morning, the snow already being soft there.

Bivouac recommended next to the refuge at 1350 m or at the hut (free access with stove and wood) at Skagastolsbu col at 1800 m.

Ascent

Climb in the direction of the col. Once under the col, angle right following the contour line on the glacier. Follow the base of the rocks and climb slightly to 1720 m at the shoulder on the glacier overlooking the lake and a smaller glacier. From there, climb back up the rocky tongue ending at the shoulder. Stay as far left as possible on this rocky ridge and do not follow the ledges on the right: they lead into the steepest part of the rocky section where the rock is loose and wet.

Then reach the snow slope at its base and climb it to the ridge. Then reach the summit following the ridge north.

Return

Descent by the north ridge: Walk

Descent by the south ridge: Follow the ridge to Sore Dyrhaugstinden. From the summit, reach a rocky shoulder 150/200 m lower by a series of abseils down the vertical face. Bring cord to set up abseils. Then reach Skagastolsbu col on foot.