North face

Ascent

From the Vélan hut, the easiest approach route passes at the foot of the rock marked by point 3091 m. Ascend the glacier to the northwest foot of this rock to about 2960 m, then join the 3000 m contour line by the center. Continue ascending the glacier by its center until the bergschrund. About 2h from the hut to the bergschrund.
The bergschrund is located at about 3180 m. Ascend the north face which leads, on a due south bearing, to point 3580 m. The slope starts gently at a good 45-50°, then, under the upper seracs, quickly rises to 60-65°. The foot of the serac barrier is around 3520 m, barely 80 m below the Dôme du Vélan. About 2h from the bergschrund to the seracs.
The seracs can be crossed by the shortest line (start at 90°) or bypassed, here by the west. Follow along staying at the foot of the ice wall, a good support for belaying with ice screws. At the foot of the seracs, the route is mixed, rock, slabs, sometimes ice or snow, depending on conditions. In case of low snow cover, a few passages on slabs or unstable rock are close to 5, or even an artificial passage for the first one (walking on ice screws). Allow 2 to 4h depending on conditions to bypass the seracs to the Dôme du Vélan. The summit is then reached very quickly (3727 m).
In total, 6 to 8h, perhaps more if conditions are unfavorable, are necessary.

Descent

By the Annibal couloir or one of its adjacent couloirs, if snow conditions allow it. Average slope of 45°, with a few short ice passages a little steeper. At the foot of the couloir, step onto the Glacier de Proz and continue northwest toward point 2816 m. Take the couloir that leads to Troistorrents (2534 m) then Les Darreys from where the ski lift can be followed to Bourg-St-Bernard.