Face N
Accous >> Col de Bergout >> Crête de Lourtica
Couloir-goulotte of 150 m in snow 40° with a few steps steeper (70° max) in ice or mixed rock-frozen turf. Exit on intermediate snow ledges via a snow couloir at 50° turning right, or via a nice little thin ice cascade in the fall line (70° max at the start then it lays back and gets tufted).
Pull left for 150 m on the ledges to reach the start of a south-facing couloir which begins with a small bergschrund followed by a mixed step at 60°. Then the couloir winds for 200 m across the face, consistent snow slope between 45° and 50°. Exit via a small notch in the western ridge, 50 m below the summit (reachable via the southern flank of the ridge).
Descent via the western ridge for 350 m in mixed PD but somewhat exposed. Traverse around the last pillar dated 1993 m via the snow slopes of the northern slope, and join the top of a shoulder giving access to a north-west facing snow couloir. At its base, reach Crête de Lourtica via one last mixed traverse beneath a wall to the right.
A few ice screws, 2 blade pitons, micros and small cams, slings
The intermediate ledges allow an easy escape
First ascent presumed by Sylvain Chauveau and Daniel Lamarque on 27 February 2009
Pick a date to see who is going
From the paragliding car park at 1130 m below the col de Bergout, follow the track to the col de Bergout. Follow the west ridge of the Crête de Lourtica (fenced field). At the top at 1725 m, cross the fence and follow the WNW ridge, a path is present.
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
