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Face N
Very steep and committing face, very rarely in condition.
From the Dix hut, step onto the Cheilon glacier. Go around the Cheilon spire on the right and attack the small face that gives access to the north face of Mont Blanc de Cheilon. Traverse horizontally to the plumb line of the summit and fire into the face.
A line that does not finish at the summit; depending on snow conditions one can climb up to 3700 m, but the upper part of the face is very rocky.
By the same route.
According to the CAS topo “Guide des Alpes valaisannes 2” by Maurice Brandt: first ski descent by A. Anzévui in May 1987. Helicopter drop-off, start along the Gallet ridge and rappel to reach the face.
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From the Vignettes hut (3157 m), climb to Pigne d'Arolla, then descend in the direction of the Dix hut, pass the Mur de la Serpentine (crevasses), then, instead of continuing to descend in the direction of the Dix hut, turn W to reach the Col de la Serpentine (3547 m) *(2h30-3h from the…
Details →From the Cabane des Dix, easily climb to Col de Cheilon (3250 m) by a vague path through the moraine and scree, then a short glacier section (a crevasse at the foot of the col opens up later in the season).
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0