North face

Beautiful forgotten face, mostly climbed by ibex. The commitment remains significant and route-finding is required.
Cascade-style climbing, but on snow mushrooms. The slope is rarely steeper than 80°. Must be climbed in winter to benefit from "concrete" mushrooms.

Approach

The approach is via the trail passing by Pierreuse. Around 1600 m, head east and join the couloir of Chenau Rouge. The color of the rock leaves little doubt.

Route

Ascend the Chenau to around 1940 m. Take a crack line to reach the grassy or snow-covered ledges around 2000 m. Small climbing moves (IV) on limestone that is a bit slippery for crampons.
Traverse along these ledges, so as to regain the big dihedral that descends from the summit almost in a straight line in the face.
Climb the dihedral on its right side (therefore on the left for the climber). Protection is often delicate; bring pitons, spot the slings and place nuts, mechanical or not.
The route continues with a slight traverse to the left until the last steps that lead to the summit by a slightly rightward line.
Note that many variations are possible depending on conditions.

Descent

The descent can be made by the northeast ridge or by the east ridge (simpler and safer), then by descending the Chenau Rouge.