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Go up to the Cortalets hut (2100 m) then head towards the Barbet cirque. The route is situated on the east face of Canigou, well to the right of "Emmène moi au bout du monde", on the right part of the face; the start is situated just in a slab to the left, at the foot of the large couloir that serves the winter couloirs "Comprat piolet" and "Offrande".
The itinerary of the original EUREKA route is on the (http:\/\/cortalets.over-blog.com\/pages\/Nouvelle_voie_Eureka-2489414.html).
| L1 | 5ab | 50 m | Rope ring on the first anchor then slab pitch ascending to the left. |
|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 5ab | 40 m | Towards the left then straight, then traverse of couloir. |
| L3 | 5ab | 40 m | Traverse the couloir to the right and take the spur then traverse horizontally to the right to pass under the overhang. Watch out, do not continue straight up the spur. |
| L4 | 5c+ | 50 m | Traverse to the right then climb a pillar, belay station at the top of a wide slab. |
| L5 | 5a | 50 m | Leave to the right then climb straight. |
| L6 | 4c | 40 m | Climb straight then traverse to the right at the level of the lunules with small cords; continue the traverse, the belay station is a bit further on (downclimb one metre to the right after a small slab). |
| L7 | 5a | 40 m | Dihedral (1 anchor at the bottom and 1 anchor at the top, the rest on cams). |
| L8 | 5a | 50 m | Leave to the right then straight to the ridge (belay on sling). |
From L4, it is possible to reach the Deux Ours route.
From L4 you can also opt for the direct variant:
| L5 | 5a | Climb straight on slab and small pillar and emerge onto a wide ledge. Equipped belay station. |
|---|---|---|
| L6 | - | "garden" by going straight to a small slab with an anchor, then pull 15 m to the left at the base of a beautiful fractured pillar. Equipped belay station. |
| L7 | 5b | Straight up the pillar. Equipped belay station. |
| L8 | - | "garden" belay station in the small cirque under the summit ridge. Belay on sling. |
| L9 | 3 | Exit rather to the right in an inclined couloir with white "marble". Belay on the ridge behind, on the summit trail side. |
- 3 to 4 double slings
- small set of cams from #0.4 to #2 (BD camalots sizes)
- 10 quickdraws
- 2×50 m rope
An accessible route to get into the spirit of the east face and enjoy a breathtaking panorama.
Intelligent line that finds good granite in a face of poor rock
The protection is solid in all the key passages (parabolts) with doubled belay stations for possible descent by abseil.
Olivier Battle, Jérôme Sala, Philippe Thomas, Laurent Deliquet and Thomas Dulac, 4 July 2008, 2009 and 2010
Pick a date to see who is going
Go up to the Cortalets refuge (2100 m) then head towards the Barbet cirque (45 minutes from the refuge). The route is on the east face of Canigou, stay left towards the scree. Start marked by the inscription "TRILLE" in red.
Details →Go up to the Cortalets hut (2100 m) then head towards the Barbet cirque. The route is situated on the east face of Canigou, to the right of the "Eureka" route; the start is on the grassy slopes a few metres to the right of the start of the Two Bears route. It is an obvious, gently…
Details →Go up to the Cortalets hut (2100 m) then head towards the Barbet cirque. The route is situated on the east face of Canigou, to the right of the "Eureka" route; the start is at the top of the grassy slopes to the right of Eureka and to the left of the CAN I GO route (at 30 m). Look for a…
Details →Take the GR 10 trail that climbs to Pic du Canigó via Joffre. 200 m after the refuge, follow the right bank of the first stream that crosses the trail (sometimes dry). This gets you more quickly to the "discovery trail" that you will go up.
Details →From the Mariailles hut, follow the GR10 towards Pic du Canigou. Leave this trail to follow the hrp (or the GRT83), on the right, at a signpost, which passes by the Arago cabin. Continue on the trail, passing below the Porteille de Valmanya. Push on to the exit of the Durier notch. Start of the…
Details →Go up to the Cortalets refuge (2100 m) then head towards the Barbet cirque. The start is found shortly after the beginning of the cirque, on the right, before going up towards the Durier notch. There is a small lake at this level. See the diagram.
Details →From the Mariailles hut, reach the Arago hut and continue following the Canigou trail to the crossing of a torrent.Your choice:
Details →From the Cortalets hut, reach the Barbet cirque at the foot of the east face of Canigou. The start is in the rock bands to the left of the Escarra Muxart snow cone, 45°.
Details →From the Cortalets hut, reach the Barbet cirque at the foot of the east face of Canigou. The start of Comprat Un Piolet is shared with the Offrande couloir.
Details →From the refuge, climb up the valley towards the Durier notch, on the left bank. When you reach the cirque, the couloir is clearly visible: scree cone at the base.
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0