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en boucle S -> E -> S
South ridge on the ascent and east ridge on the descent and return to the south
Climb the Chilchorn by the path (or pass at its foot). 30min. Continue by the cairned path which descends in places then disappears but the cairns are still there. Climb the first step of the south slope by an easy grassy wall on the left while ascending (then follow the cairns and go back up on the left, always ascending). It is more of a face than a ridge. The steepest place is also the only move where the rock can move (a rope with quicklink is placed on a block for protection, especially useful in case of descent) because the rock is not as friable as one would like to say, there are beautiful gneiss blocks. Join the route of the south couloir then of the east ridge by easy blocks. 1h-1h30.
Follow the cairns then the ridge to the top of the south couloir. Go around the first 2 big towers by the south (dihedral to downclimb at the end of the 2<sup>e</sup>). The 3<sup>e</sup> is rather bypassed by the north, then an easy descent to more climbable rocks. One can downclimb by descending on the right then traverse right after a cairn (small weakness on original curved rock, delicate to descend but with footholds hidden from above). Reach a col, descend the couloir then traverse northward to regain the starting south ridge. 1h30-2h.
Helmet (watch out for ibex)
Ice axe and even crampons in case of névés
- One can also take the south couloir depending on conditions (ascent or descent), more tedious and friable.
- One can also descend a couloir before the 3<sup>e</sup> tower or, on the contrary, continue the east ridge for a long time until the next col. This one is approached or continued from/to Oberwald.
- T4 route for the south ridge, T4 for the dry south couloir or F if névé, T5 depending on the variations for the east ridge.
- The rocks hold and are sometimes beautiful if one does not stray from the route. The couloirs are, however, better on skis and not recommended, at least on the ascent.
Pick a date to see who is going
Ascent: from the Nufenenpass 2478m (Passo della Novena) follow the path that climbs northeast to the Chilchhorn until reaching the saddle at about 2760m, a little north of the rocky point 2784m of the Chilchhorn; it is easily reached with only a short rocky passage on the north slope, then by a…
Details →A mountain pass is essential for this traverse, Oberwald is easily reached by train from Bern or Lausanne, from the Nufenen col postal buses to Airolo or Ulrichen where one catches the train.
Details →From All'Acqua follow the line of the Nufenen road, reaching the huts near the hairpin bend at q.2410.Gain N to the small lakes q. 2543 and 2600. Looking N, the ruins of Capanna Gonerli can be seen on the ridge. Instead, take left to cross the hump 2743 to reach a depression in the south ridge…
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0