The start (common to the 2 routes) is located about 250 m west of the Brèche de Roland, at the level of a dark grey step. Access to the start is by climbing the ledge from the right.
It makes sense to stack the 2 routes if you come to wear out your shoes in the sector...
| L1 | 6c | 25 m | Generally straight above, but wanders a bit in the roofs, razor-sharp rock. |
|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | A0 and 6c+ | 25 m | 3 A0 moves, then a beautiful burst to the right. |
| L3 | 6a+ | 20 m | Beautiful grooves. |
| L1 | 6b+ | 25 m | Same start, traverse left on 3 points, then straight. |
|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | A0 and 7a | 25 m | 2 A0 moves in the first third, the slightly overhanging finish is superb. |
| L3 | 7a+ | 20 m | Start in a dihedral, one very hard move near the top. |
By abseil.
It's short, but the quality of the rock, the climbing and the setting make the trip worthwhile. It's a good plan to round off a stay in the area, before or after a big day on the Tour for example...
Daniel Lanne and Michel Courtade (1992)
Pick a date to see who is going
Go up to the Notch of Roland. From there to the right in the direction of Taillon go up easy ledges for about ten metres and make a slight traverse to the left to reach the base of a dihedral (pitons above, belay station on small cams) or directly from the ground without protection.
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0
