From the north — Monte Nevoso, climbing route | Pick a Peak
← Monte Nevoso

From the north

Da N

Monte Nevoso · 3358 m · Puster Valley · Italy
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 1758 m
Orientation
NE

Splendid outing, perhaps the most beautiful in the vicinity of Rifugio Roma.

Access

Riva di Tures (1700), (Alta Pusteria). Ud-Sappada-San Candido-Brunico. Follow the Valle Aurina to Campo Tures and turn right for Riva di Tures, continuing to the end of the road (parking near the cableway).

Ascent

From the end of the road follow the cross-country track towards Sasso Lungo, ignoring the summer path for Rif. Roma. A little farther on, turn decisively up through the forest (sign), dense and very steep. Awkward with skis on. Once out onto a path that cuts to the right, less steep, beware of a bend: live ice! After going around a very steep rib, on gentler ground, in sparse forest, reach the open slopes at the base of Monte Nevoso. Turn left and climb over open, rolling ground, on the last stretch a little steeper, to Roma 2270 m (2.30 h).
Descend for a stretch along the access road and traverse in a north-west direction, losing as little altitude as possible, to enter the broad valley of Vedretta di Monte Nevoso. Ascend the valley and, by a couloir from right to left, get onto the glacier. Ascend it, on ground becoming progressively steeper, to the sub-summit, where the skis are left. On foot along the airy ridge, sometimes a little difficult because of cornices and rock steps, to the summit (3.30 h; 6 h).

Descent

By the ascent route, avoiding going back up to the refuge.

Gear

Rope, ice axe and crampons indispensable.

Remarks

Period: March-May

Alpine difficulty: 1
Avalanche danger: 2/3

Route history

6 October 1866 - G. Auer, Erzherzog Rainer, H. Oberarzbacher, G. Weiss, H. Wurmbrand.

Plan a climb

Pick a date to see who is going

Planned climbers
—
Planned: 0
    Sign in to plan a climb
    Monte Nevoso
    Monte Nevoso Cactus26 / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0