Avio ridge

Approach

From the parking at Pas de la Mainera, we climb up to the summit (2756m) that is just beside the west of Pic del Muntanyó.

Route

From the summit we start the ridge with a downclimb that quickly puts us in position. We descend inside a dihedral (III), which has a wedged block (apparently stable) in the lower part. Then we keep downclimbing on easier ground. We find ourselves in front of the first of the four needles that make up this section of the ridge. We can attack it by a fissured slab in front of us (probably IV) or else traverse on somewhat exposed terrain along the south slope until we stand at the foot of a dihedral (III). When we reach the top of the dihedral, we start downclimbing, still on the south side (III-).

The next needle has a grassy ledge on the north slope, which we use to approach its summit. At the end of the ledge there is a platform, from where we climb up to the needle (III-). When we reach the needle we move to the south side and downclimb (III-).

The other two needles are easier, it can be done moving together, except for some exposed point where it may be wise to protect (III-). Thus we finish the first part of the ridge, made up of four needles, and reach the base of the ridge section where we gain more height, up to a summit (2832m) sometimes indicated as Pic de l'Avió. From the col where we are, we could easily leave the ridge.

We start the climb with an easy climbing section, until we stand at the foot of a short but very aesthetic dihedral with a good crack at the back, which we will use to protect (IV). On leaving the dihedral, we find ourselves on a slab that we climb easily on friction, and which is closed off by a step on all sides. At the back, this step even overhangs. The easiest exit is by the lower end of the step, where there is a good crack that allows us to make a long foot move (IV). We continue on a new easy friction slab to the crest of the ridge. Then we continue along the crest until we pass under a gendarme and then make a short downclimb (III-).

Above us there is a new pitch of crack, a dihedral more open than the previous one and that in a couple of places overhangs slightly (IV). When we leave this section, the difficulty drops to a notch reached by a very steep couloir on the north side. We make a new pitch whose difficulty is concentrated at the start, on leaving the notch. We have to skirt a loose but stable block to the right (III+) and then climb easily until the ridge eases and we reach Pic de l'Avió.

Most of the steps described are not mandatory, it is possible to avoid them on one side or the other, but the price to pay is some exposure, poorer rock quality and loose blocks.

From here on we can put away the ropes, the ridge is easier from here on, there will only be a few climbing moves in the final section, reaching Pic de Mainera. We descend on the south side and follow the crest line or else on the south slope walking or climbing without much difficulty until reaching the steeper section, before Pic de Mainera. There, the ridge becomes sharper again, and in fact it is cut by walls that get higher and higher on the north side. Whenever we can, we look for the passage on the south side. We will find some III- moves up to the summit.

Descent

We make the descent by the south face, with no more difficulties than the slope itself and the unstable terrain until reaching the hollow where the small lake of Mainera lies. All that remains is to take up the beaten path that will bring us back to the parking.