Northeast couloir

Approach · 2h

From the refuge, follow the moraine toward the east to step onto the glacier du Tour. Ascend the glacier passing above the Reilly signal. Continue in the direction of the Col du Tour. Around 3200 m, climb a steep section between the Petite Fourche and the rocky rib 3238 m (possibility of bypassing the rocky rib - Adams Reilly signal) - also on the right, depending on the state of the glacier. Head east in the direction of the col des Fourches. Then by sight to the narrow north-east couloir of the Grande Fourche.

Route · 2-3h

Original route

Cross the bergschrund if there is one, then ascend the couloir to 30 meters before the notch that ends it (about 130 m). From there (rock flake, sling, piton in the goulotte a few meters above), start on the right-hand side into a mixed step: goulotte interrupted by fairly athletic rock steps. In 2 pitches of 20/30 m, reach a comfortable shoulder (the topo says that a single 60 m pitch may be enough - but beware of rope drag!). From the shoulder, traverse left across a rock flake on the left (4a) to reach the final couloir (snow or ice) which you ascend for about ten meters to reach the summit (finally between the two summits, these being large granite blocks placed on either side. The left one (on arrival) is easily accessible.

Variant by the notch

Ascend the couloir to the notch to join the notch (cord on large blocks to make a belay).
Ascend the ridge by large steps in rock (3), drop back onto the north slope to regain the ice. Reach the summit by passing under a large perched block.

Descent · 2h

From the summit, start between the two summit blocks (going around the left one from below) and descend the south ridge facing the Aiguille d'Argentière (Saleina slope) by ledges and rocks for about 50 m until reaching the top of a couloir that descends facing the Chardonnet. Descend the snow couloir for about 50 m. Climb back up opposite on the west ridge that is reached below the pillars that block access to it. Once on the ridge, at the foot of the pillars, descend a few meters to a snowy shoulder. From there, head into the face to the right for a few meters, then by an S-shaped line reach the top of a rocky bastion; descend into the left couloir (facing the slope) - to be identified during the approach - which descends to the bergschrund.