Chez Lulu

Ascent:

Modern mixed route opened by Damien Ballanger and Frédéric Chose on March 22, 1994. It was later straightened by Chiro Sánchez, Enrique Villar and Alfonso Visan on March 21, 1995, giving rise to the route “Super-Lulu”. This description is limited to the original route “Chez Lulu”.

It is a succession of goulottes with very difficult mixed sections that climbs the rocky bastion located to the left of the classic Maria José Aller couloir. Severe mixed itinerary.

From the parking area where we leave the car, continue along the track to the second bend after the refuge. From there traverse directly toward the Maria José Aller couloir (the marked couloir to the right of the summit of Peña Telera) until reaching its base at about 2100 meters of altitude.

Climb the couloir until passing on the left a gray and yellow overhanging wall beyond which there is usually a icicle. Leave the icicle on the left and climb a very thin goulotte of about 15 meters over delicate mixed terrain. Above, easier snow ramps open out, leading into an aesthetic, wider goulotte with better ice. Climb it directly (80º) until below a small mixed overhang. Pass it on the right (delicate) and ascend diagonally to the right over delicate terrain on thin ice broken by mixed sections (1 spit). Then go back to the left to regain the axis of the goulotte and after a step of better ice you emerge onto easy snow ramps. Climb them directly, passing some easy mixed section, to reach a couloir that ends in a smooth, overhanging dihedral with some spit. Do not follow the dihedral but climb directly the rocky wall located to its left and a little lower down (6a, mixed). After the wall a snow couloir opens up, dividing into two, and by either of its branches takes us to the summit ridge, very close to the summit.

Allow about 6 hours of climbing.

Descent:

From the exit of the couloir follow the ridge westward until after the Cima sin Nombre. A small col is the exit of the Z couloir, by which we can descend directly with two abseils at the start. Little by little the slope eases until reaching the foot of the wall. We return eastward to regain the starting point.