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Avalanche Gulch Route

2A | PD | II Edit route
Avalanche Gulch is the standard and most commonly climbed route on Mount Shasta. It is a snow climb in the main season, with a straightforward line up the broad south side of the mountain. The route is heavily influenced by snow conditions and can involve firm snow, soft snow, or icy sections. The Red Banks and Misery Hill are the main named obstacles on the ascent. Objective hazards include rockfall, avalanche danger, and rapidly changing weather. In late season, the route can become more broken and require more careful route-finding.

Route Outline

Trailhead or Bunny Flat area -> Horse Camp / Helen Lake approach -> Avalanche Gulch
Ascend the gulch past Red Banks and Misery Hill
Continue to the summit plateau and summit crater rim
Descend the same route, typically by glissade or on foot depending on conditions

More routes on Mount Shasta

Clear Creek Route

2A | PD | II
The Clear Creek Route is a well-known alternative on the southeast side of Mount Shasta. It is generally less crowded than Avalanche Gulch and is often used when parties want a quieter ascent. The route is typically a snow climb, though conditions can vary widely by season. It involves long open slopes with route-finding required in poor visibility. Avalanche exposure and loose volcanic terrain are important hazards, especially lower on the mountain. The upper mountain can be windy and exposed near the summit plateau.
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Casaval Ridge

3A | AD | III
Casaval Ridge is a classic alpine ridge route on Mount Shasta and is significantly more technical than the standard snow routes. It follows a long, exposed ridge with mixed snow, rock, and sometimes ice. The route demands solid route-finding and comfort on steep alpine terrain. Conditions can range from moderate snow climbing to more serious mixed climbing depending on the season. Exposure is sustained, and cornices or unstable snow can be a major concern. It is a serious objective compared with the mountain's normal routes.
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Hotlum-Bolam Ridge

3A | AD | III
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge is a major north-side alpine route on Mount Shasta. It combines glacier and ridge climbing with long snow slopes and exposed upper-mountain terrain. The route is more committing than the standard south-side climbs and is affected by seasonal snow and ice conditions. Crevasse and cornice hazards may be present depending on the year. Route-finding can be complex in poor visibility or late season. It is a recognized classic for climbers seeking a more alpine ascent of the peak.
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Wintun Route

3A | AD | III
The Wintun Route is a documented alpine route on the northwest side of Mount Shasta. It is less commonly climbed than Avalanche Gulch but is established in climbing references. The route typically involves steep snow climbing and may include mixed sections depending on conditions. It is more remote and committing than the standard routes, with greater emphasis on self-sufficiency. Avalanche exposure and route-finding are important considerations. Upper-mountain weather and visibility can strongly affect the climb.
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