West ridge

Wild ridge traverse, route-finding and gentle climbing required.

Approach · 40min from the hut, 3h from the base

From the hut, return to the GR 52 until beacon 103.
From Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée follow the direction of the Rabuons hut until beacon 103 on the GR52.
Climb the grassy slope towards Cime Nègre.

Route · 2h30 solo, 4h to 6h on the rope

Climb to Cime Nègre, descend along the ridge and pass the hard step of the route in downclimbing through a crack system (4b) to reach the notch.
Climb to Mont Carnet, descend on the northern side then rejoin the ridge to a flat col, loose rock.
Climb to Banc de Gicanas by going up through scree, 30 m before a quartz slab which you will have spotted to pass on the northern side in order to find a fine suspended prow, reach the summit. Descend through the stonefields.
Follow the ridge line which is almost horizontal, reach a sawn-off rain gauge and its base.
Reach the first tooth of Luzernier, climb a grassy couloir, traverse left 5 m then climb straight to the summit.
Reach the second tooth, descend and reach a notch: either downclimb along the ridge taking care of a threatening block under the left foot, or abseil by a rope ring in place ~25 m or a single piton to supplement ~10 m.
Contour around 3/4 gendarmes to the ridge then follow the eastern side then follow the ridge line to the summit.

Descent · 1h30

By the normal route.