Southeast ridge

Approach

From the car park below the hamlet of l'Artigue, at the bottom of the Vicdessos valley, climb to the sheepfold of Mespelat. Just before reaching it, descend to the stream, cross it, and climb back up towards the ridge following an easy, grassy couloir. Reach by sight the foot of the ridge at the level of a well-visible and characteristic dihedral.

Route

One pitch (5) leads to a less steep zone, which you climb until you run into a beautiful fractured wall, to be climbed in three fine pitches (a pity there is so much lichen!). From there, follow the ridge, you pass three fine gendarmes, pitches in grade 5, downclimbs in grade 4, airy and very alpine. The ridge flattens, continue to follow the crest, until a col which allows passage between the two slopes around the ridge. Continue still on the easy ridge, which straightens gently, until very fine gendarmes. A first abseil is not mandatory (downclimb on the south slope). You then find yourself at the foot of a fine very steep gendarme; climb it on the south slope (splendid rock, 5) and contour before the summit by the left by a small ledge, then downclimb to the belay station on a terrace (a delicate move). From there, stride across a notch and climb a slab (5) to reach a less steep zone. A few pitches of light difficulty and some walking lead to the summit.

Descent

Descend on the west slope, by the Saspre, then a small couloir and rejoin the path of the col de l'Artigue.