South ridge — Pointe des Tsarmettes, climbing route | Pick a Peak
← Pointe des Tsarmettes

South ridge

Arête S

Pointe des Tsarmettes · 2707 m · Bernese Alps In The Wide Meaning · Switzerland
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 1200 m
Height of the difficulties
200 m
Orientation
E, SE, S
Free climbing
3b

Steep hike on grass and rock slopes then an unclimbable ridge on schist.

Start from the Combe area or a little before as here towards Les Evouettes. First follow one of the paths then the steep east face up to the collet between Pointe des Tsarmettes and our remarkable dark mountain visible all the way (anonymous Point 2713 on the maps but it is the real Sex Noir marked too far north on the maps). Go around the gendarme by the north in a diagonal ascent then drop onto the west flank of the ridge to bypass the next one then follow the ridge passing 3 sub-summits (between two of them you will have to escape again onto the west flank but the route is logical). The difficulties look insurmountable but the route is easier than it looks except for the last steps. Indeed, once almost at summit altitude, the ridge becomes horizontal, extremely airy and narrow and you have to stand on or cling to blocks that are not very secure or even unstable. There is a short and weak delicate notch to cross (easier on the way back). The last meters are done by traversing into the west flank for 2-3 meters (exposed, impressive and not very stable) then climbing a very short pseudo-chimney (here, however, there are 2-3 old pitons that hold if needed...). You then find yourself on a surprisingly small summit, a bit cramped, beside a small rusty cross barely set in a small cairn. Descent by the same route, of course always being careful.

Face est, le sommet, sombre, se voit bien au centre
Face est, le sommet, sombre, se voit bien au centre — zim27 / CC BY-SA 4.0 / camptocamp.org

Gear

- ice axe-crampons to get past possible snow patches at the end of the season

- a helmet if desired

- a rope turns out to be more dangerous than anything else since it cannot be attached to anything, but for 2 people it can possibly be used with caution (very short rope and for belaying on the summit)

Remarks

- route between hiking and mountaineering, not protectable apart from 2 old pitons on the summit itself

- possibility of changing the approach by starting from Pas de Mambré reachable by cable car

- very wild terrain, with the corresponding fauna

- easily combined with Pointe des Tsarmettes to the south

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    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0