Northeast ridge — Punta de Romazet, climbing route | Pick a Peak
← Punta de Romazet

Northeast ridge

Arête NE

Punta de Romazet · 2846 m · Montcalm Massif · Spain
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 1250 m
Time
8.5 h
Height of the difficulties
300 m
Orientation
NE
Engagement
II
Equipment
P4

Obvious ridge facing you on the way up to the Gardelle lakes

Approach (2h):

From Soulcem, take the steep yellow-marked trail that leads to the Gardelle lakes. Reach the upper lake then, from the outlet, climb right onto the shoulder by the slightly less obvious path that leads to the small Canalbonne lake. The ridge starts at the small col that borders the lake.

Route (2h):

The ridge is easy and climbing throughout, with no notch to traverse or notable descents, with consistent difficulty around II or III. The rock is good with good holds following the line, watch it a bit more when you move left. It is possible to bypass all difficulties on the left, by the south-east slope, going up the steep grassy exposed slopes. The north slope of the ridge is much steeper and rockier.

Two options for the start:

- climb directly on the ridge line from the small col,

- bypass the ridge from the north by following the edge of the lake, go up the scree slopes then take the second couloir which easily reaches the ridge line just above the first step.

Then continue either by following the line as best you can, more climbing and difficult at times, or by bypassing difficulties on the left by going up small mixed grass and rock couloirs.

There is a second step in easy and solid II. Then the ridge is harder to follow, with gendarmes / short steps more or less solid avoidable on the east slope in the mixed rock and grassy couloirs.

The ridge emerges a few tens of metres from the barely marked summit, which you reach by easily traversing two small notches on the line. Once at the top, the Spanish slope is much more welcoming with grassy slopes much less steep than the French slope.

Descent (2h):

Directly below the summit cairn, take the east ridge (normal route) following the few cairns to a small col. From there, two options:

- drop north towards the Gardelle lake to reach its outlet going around by the rocky ledges. Return to Soulcem by the approach trail.

- Descend south by a wide grassy couloir to the Riou Blanc lake, then follow the stream on the right bank by a vague cairned path that leads to the Roumazet lake from which you join the GR which leads back to the car park.

This last option allows you to make a nice loop.

Profil de l'arête depuis l'étang supérieur
Profil de l'arête depuis l'étang supérieur — LéOô / CC BY-SA 4.0 / camptocamp.org

Plan a climb

Pick a date to see who is going

Planned climbers
—
Planned: 0
    Sign in to plan a climb
    Punta de Romazet
    Punta de Romazet Contraix / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Wikimedia Commons

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0