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Arête N intégrale
From Pra Cornet, follow the drivable track marked "Lac Lioson". Shortly after La Chaux Derrey, cut across the pastures toward point 1942.
Climb back up the grassy ridge then the impressive grassy sentinel, taking care not to stray too far onto the east slope.
Past the sentinel, the ridge runs into three rocky steps:
- The first is best bypassed on the right (west)
- The second and the third are climbed easily on perfectly adequate rock (II-III). If need be, they can also be bypassed on the right.
The ridge then descends for about a hundred meters. Follow its crest, avoiding a few steps on the left. You arrive at col 2300 (unnamed, and no spot height on CNS).
From the col, continue along the ridge to the foot of a slender needle. Cut east into scree and reach a small basin. Climb a not very open couloir, clearly visible, which heads due south.
The couloir exits to the right of a shoulder. Climb the final part of the east ridge without difficulty to the summit.
Descend by the same route to col 2300.
Head northeast across sloping turf then a scree slope to the bottom of the Lué Bo valley.
Pick up the alpine road to the north, which leads back to Pra Cornet.
- Ice axe useful, rope not necessary.
- For climbing the steps, it depends on the parties... (UIAA II-III)
- Aerial route and sometimes exposed. Stunning view !
- Be careful on the greasy turf of the sentinel
Pick a date to see who is going
From Les Mosses, reach Lioson d'en Haut, go around Lac Lioson on the left and climb the slopes on skis under the obvious goulotte clearly visible above the lake to reach pt 2015. Gear cache possible.
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Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0