East ridge — Bec des Rosses, climbing route | Pick a Peak
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East ridge

Arête E

PD− 2 Edit route
Bec des Rosses · 3222 m · Grand Combin · Switzerland
Elevation Gain (m)
↗ 1031 m
Kind
Height of the difficulties
283 m
Orientation
N
Engagement
II
Free climbing
2

Approach

From Les Ruinettes (2192 m) or from La Chaux (2266 m), follow the marked path to the Mont Fort hut (2457 m). Then follow the road that climbs toward the Col des Gentianes. At a bend (point 2706 m on the map), leave the road to follow the blue-and-white marked route that climbs toward the Col de la Chaux, clearly visible from the road. Reach the col (2940 m).

East ridge

From the col, follow the ridge first due S to point 3081 m, then E to the summit (3223 m). The route along the ridge is obvious and presents no particular difficulties.

Descent

By the same route.

Variants

1. Descend the broad stony couloir between the 2 summits then the Louvie valley to reach the path leading to Col Termin (1h). Then return by a pleasant narrow and wild path (nature reserve) on the W slope to La Chaux (1h30). This makes the circuit of Bec des Rosses at the same time as its traverse.
2. Follow the ridge and climb the S summit. Downclimb it and descend the SE face behind the S summit. A passage in the grassy slope is possible but difficult to spot from above, tricky, and passes over cliffs; prefer to join on the right by descending the main couloir, below the gendarmes of the S ridge of Bec des Rosses. Thus reach the Louvie valley then Col Termin (1h). Then return to La Chaux as described in option 1. Variant 1 is less tricky than variant 2 but no less tedious (in any case for those who undertake it on the ascent!).

Remarks

- The La Chaux glacier has almost disappeared and is essentially located on the left bank of the valley, so crampons are not indispensable.
- The route can be done in a day, and even in half a day depending on the level of the participants.

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    Bec des Rosses
    Bec des Rosses Vladimir Goluzov / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Wikimedia Commons

    Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0