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Route in the middle of the east face of the Zuckerspitz, 5 pitches (130 m), taking place mainly on slabs and vertical terrain.
From the Grand-Orgue car park. Head towards the Grand-Orgue sector, follow the marked trail towards Husegg along the small stream. Continue up the valley then head straight up the slope towards the east face of the Zuckerspitz.
Alex (5 pitches / 130 m / 2h30)
P#1 | 6b | 30 m | Follow the crack going up and to the left then a slightly tighter section before reaching a slab that slopes.
P#2 | 6a+ | 30 m | Beautiful sloping slab, fine and technical.
Transition - 15 m: Climb the vertical step (2 bolts) then reach a belay on the left of the ledge.
P#3 | 6a | 30 m | Climb a vertical crack, then easier and more sloping terrain up to the belay.
P#4 | 6b/A0 | 25 m | Descend 2 metres from the belay, traverse right then climb up slightly to the right then traverse back left. Exit the pillar on the left (2 aid points / A0) to reach the belay.
P#5 | 5c | 30 m | Traverse left then climb straight up to the belay at the summit.
By rappel (3×45 m) / P5 > isolated belay > isolated belay to the right of a group of firs > ground
Equipped from the base in 2021 by P. Gobet and G. Buchs
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From the parking IV Grande Orgue follow the carriage road closed to traffic for 350 m. Until a red/white hiking trail.Turn left and follow the trail descending slightly towards the stream at the bottom of the valley heading west.Take the upper branch of the trail to the right above the small bridge…
Details →Source: camptocamp.org · text under CC BY-SA 4.0