Mountaineering Routes · Mount Logan

King Trench is the best-known and most established route on Mount Logan. It follows a long glacier and snow line up the broad trench system on the mountain’s south side. The route is generally considered non-technical in the alpine sense, but it is extremely serious because of its remoteness, altitude, and crevasse and weather hazards. Travel is typically on glacier terrain with extensive route-finding and crevasse management. The summit day is only one part of a much larger expedition. Conditions can change rapidly, and objective hazards are significant throughout the route.

Hummingbird Ridge is one of the classic alpine routes on Mount Logan and is far more technical than the standard glacier ascent. It is a long, committing ridge climb with sustained exposure and complex mixed terrain. The route is famous for its seriousness, with difficult route-finding and objective hazards from cornices, avalanches, and weather. It is not a casual variation and requires strong alpine skills and expedition experience. Because of its length and remoteness, retreat can be very difficult. It is widely documented in climbing literature as a major Canadian alpine objective.