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King Trench

3A | AD | III Edit route
King Trench is the best-known and most established route on Mount Logan. It follows a long glacier and snow line up the broad trench system on the mountain’s south side. The route is generally considered non-technical in the alpine sense, but it is extremely serious because of its remoteness, altitude, and crevasse and weather hazards. Travel is typically on glacier terrain with extensive route-finding and crevasse management. The summit day is only one part of a much larger expedition. Conditions can change rapidly, and objective hazards are significant throughout the route.

Route Outline

Kluane National Park access -> King Trench glacier system
Ascend the broad trench and glacier terrain toward the upper mountain
Continue through the upper basin and onto the summit slopes
Reach the summit of Mount Logan
Descend by the same general route

More routes on Mount Logan

Hummingbird Ridge

5B | TD+/ED1 | V/VI
Hummingbird Ridge is one of the classic alpine routes on Mount Logan and is far more technical than the standard glacier ascent. It is a long, committing ridge climb with sustained exposure and complex mixed terrain. The route is famous for its seriousness, with difficult route-finding and objective hazards from cornices, avalanches, and weather. It is not a casual variation and requires strong alpine skills and expedition experience. Because of its length and remoteness, retreat can be very difficult. It is widely documented in climbing literature as a major Canadian alpine objective.
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