A nice route with the gear always within sight, making the line obvious while keeping its alpine character. There are enough options to add protection when the bolts are a bit far apart. The route joins the south sub-summit of Grand Darrey.
From the A Neuve hut, go around the equipped passage with chains and climb the moraine opposite, then a scree zone toward the Essettes col. The route starts on a small ledge (or just below when the snow has melted), after climbing 20 meters up the col slope. The first 3 bolts are visible and the name is written at the foot of the route.
| L1 | 5c | 30 m | Climb the pillar to the belay on the left, under the roof |
|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 6a | 20 m | Pass the roof on good holds, trending right, then climb a slab to the left. |
| L3 | 5c | 30 m | Straight above the belay, small walls broken by small overhangs. |
| L4 | 6a | 40 m | Start straight above the belay. First moves along a slab before getting established on a slab. After crossing a zone of ledges, climb a system of vertical cracks |
| L5 | 5b | 40 m | First part on easy ledges (20 m) before climbing a wall with good positive holds. |
| L6 | 6b | 20 m | Magnificent pitch in an oblique and physical dihedral, the hard moves are well protected. |
| L7 | 5b | 20 m | Trend right to a bolt, then straight up. |
Rappel down the route.
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地図に表示する項目
山小屋 · 2 735 m (山頂から779 m下) · 28床 · CAS - Section Diablerets
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無人小屋 · 2 983 m (山頂から531 m下)
山小屋 · 2 667 m (山頂から847 m下) · 12床 · CAS, section de la Gruyère - Bulle
山小屋 · 2 771 m (山頂から743 m下) · 94床 · Club Alpin Français
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無人小屋 · 2 835 m (山頂から679 m下) · 12床 · CAI Torino
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From the A Neuve refuge, follow the red and white paint marks that allow you to bypass the equipped section with chains. Leave the path when it descends to follow the Grande Lui itinerary and climb a north/south moraine (cross a névé also late in the season). When on the moraine, we soon reach…
詳細 →From the A Neuve hut, follow the red and white paint marks that allow you to bypass the equipped passage with chains, and leave the trail when it descends again to climb onto a north/south moraine (névé to cross even late in the season). Once on the moraine, you quickly gain the scree descending…
詳細 →From the A Neuve hut, follow the red and white paint marks that allow you to bypass the section equipped with chains, and leave the trail when it descends again to climb onto a north/south moraine (névé to cross even late in the season). Once on the moraine, you quickly gain the scree descending…
詳細 →From the A Neuve hut, descend either by the chains, or by snow patches. Reach the snowy basin up to the foot of the couloir that descends from the col of the Grande Lui (3150 m approx.). Climb this couloir for about 50 m by rocks on the right bank.
詳細 →出典: camptocamp.org · テキストはCC BY-SA 4.0
