Face E
Take the Hörnli hut by the lifts to Trockener Steg, continue on skins to gain 100 m of elevation southward and head toward the east face. Climb up below the hut, traversing right above a rock band then through a couloir, continue and pass left of the last rock band at about 3100 m, before traversing right to the hut.
From the hut, head above the large serac band below the east face of the Matterhorn.
Cross the bergschrund and access the face by an obvious approach couloir on the right bank at about 3450 m. Then straight up until the slope steepens at about 4000 m, continue to the shoulder by a wide very steep couloir if conditions allow it. Skiable at about 4240 m. Continue by the Hörnli ridge to reach the summit.
By the same route, but do not linger.
- 1st ascent: 18 and 19 September 1932 - Enzo Benedetti, Maurice Bich, Louis Carrel, Lucien Carrel, Antoine Gaspard, Guiseppe Mazzotti. Direct outing without going by the shoulder.
- 1st ski descent: 14 May 1975 - Toni Valeruz. In 21 min, from the shoulder, reached by helicopter. He repeated this descent on 26 May 1975 and on 30 May 1996.
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地図に表示する項目
山小屋 · 3 829 m (山頂から649 m下) · 60床 · Società Guide del Cervino
避難小屋 · 3 345 m (山頂から1 133 m下) · CAI Gallarate
避難小屋 · 3 510 m (山頂から968 m下) · 4床
山小屋 · 2 810 m (山頂から1 668 m下) · 21床 · private
避難小屋 · 3 525 m (山頂から953 m下)
避難小屋 · 3 325 m (山頂から1 153 m下) · 9床 · Società guide del Cervino
避難小屋 · 3 848 m (山頂から630 m下) · 9床 · Società guide del Cervino
避難小屋 · 3 142 m (山頂から1 336 m下) · 4床 · Club Alpino Accademico Italiano
避難小屋 · 3 739 m (山頂から739 m下) · 6床 · Associazione Guide Alpine Italiane
山小屋 · 3 507 m (山頂から971 m下) · 35床 · SAC - CAS
無人小屋 · 2 770 m (山頂から1 708 m下)
避難小屋 · 3 572 m (山頂から906 m下) · Società guide del Cervino
無人小屋 · 3 215 m (山頂から1 263 m下) · 12床 · Club Alpino Accademico Italiano
山小屋 · 2 337 m (山頂から2 141 m下) · 48床 · Familie Hugo und Fabienne Biner
避難小屋 · 3 319 m (山頂から1 159 m下)
山小屋 · 2 886 m (山頂から1 592 m下) · 80床 · SAC - CAS
避難小屋 · 2 830 m (山頂から1 648 m下) · 8床
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From the Hörnli hut (3260 m), follow the path that leads to the foot of the initial step. Climb this step, equipped with fixed ropes, and exit left onto the east flank. Climb another step trending right until you find the start of the path crossing left across the large scree field below P. 3400.
詳細 →The route climbs the obvious dihedral located between the starting pillar of Padre Pio (flower pillar) and the Furggen ridge. First climb the 300 m of snow/ice couloir. Then, you arrive in the dihedral proper. 500 m of mixed climbing (including 2 pitches of climbing) steeply lead to the exit at the…
詳細 →From the Hörnli hut, follow the same approach as the Schmid route to reach the glacier (delicate passage) of the north face. Continue until below the overhang of the Zmutt nose, start in the big buttress, on ice, just left.
詳細 →The ridge is the one just to the right of the Pic Tyndall glacier, the first before the classic Lion route. It ends at Pic Tyndall
詳細 →出典: camptocamp.org · テキストはCC BY-SA 4.0
