See also the (sewenhuette.ch) on the hut's website.
Follow the path along the hillside to the ruins of the old hut. Carry on, following the blue-and-white marks along the stream, reach a flat area and carry on to the left as best you can through scree, following cairns and orange dots, to the foot of the wall. Beware of the snowfield at the base in early summer.
The route is marked by a big orange dot and an engraved plate.
| L1 | 6a+ | 40 m | 6a+ for 2–3 more delicate moves, at the start and towards the end. Otherwise sustained at 5c. |
|---|---|---|---|
| L2 | 6a | 45 m | A traverse left under an overhang, then straight up slabs that are not obvious, the bolts far apart. |
| L3 | 6a | 48 m | Straight up a vertical pillar, excellent holds, then a little to the right and straight up. A superb 48 m flight with holds out of an anthology. |
| L4 | 6a | 40 m | A short traverse left, then straight up sculpted slabs to exit right into a less steep area. |
| L5 | 5c+ | 48 m | Gently angled slabs to be dealt with by traversing right to reach a spur, with a short 5c+ move at the top. |
| L6 | 6a | 40 m | A short passage right through the grass to turn the overhanging start, then rising to the left by a steeper passage that is very well protected. |
| L7 | 6a+ | 50 m | Rising to the left over steep walls and flakes (take care with the rope drag, long quickdraws). |
| L8 | 2c | 20 m | A short link over steps, then grass. |
| L9 | 6a+ | 40 m | To the left along a crack, then bearing left to turn the steepest areas. |
| L10 | 5c+ | 40 m | Bearing left up a less steep wall. Traverse left near the top to avoid a finger crack that takes little protection and is above all lichenous. |
| L11 | 3a | To gain the summit (optional). |
| R1 | R10-R9 | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| R2 | R9-R7 | ||
| R3 | Independent | 45 m | From R7, straight down |
| R4 | Independent | 35 m | Bearing a little right on the way down |
| R5 | Brings you to R4 | 40 m | |
| R6 | R4-R3 | ||
| R7 | R3-R2 | ||
| R8 | R2-R1 | ||
| R9 | R1-ground |
2×50 m, 12 quickdraws (cams 0.5–2, nuts, according to Schweizplaisir; not used)
Heinz Müller and Röbi Ruckstuhl in 2012
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地図に表示する項目
無人小屋 · 6床
無人小屋 · 1 850 m (山頂から968 m下) · 4床
避難小屋
データ © OpenStreetMap
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From Sewen Hütte follow the trail that passes above Lake Sewen to Sewenstöss (ruin of the old refuge).
詳細 →出典: camptocamp.org · テキストはCC BY-SA 4.0
