Interlaken - Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen - Kleine Scheidegg - Eigergletscher, by train.
From Eigergletscher station, descend 140 m along the moraine ridge then follow a path to point 2098 m (crossing the torrent). Then climb up through the rocks (faint path, cairns), a few passages require using the hands. The approach to the hut is a little more broken.
From Güggihütte, traverse almost horizontally to the left (north-east) then climb back up the slope that leads to the Mönchplateau by zigzagging path traces marked by cairns.
From the Mönchplateau (3112 m), follow due east the broad snowy ridge (scree at the end of the season) which steepens progressively, then head south-east towards the foot of the Nollen (3400 m).
The Nollen passage is a steep ice climb (65°, max 70°) for about 40 metres. Depending on conditions, the less steep sections (45°-55°) before and after the Nollen may require extending the protection over more than one pitch (max. 3 pitches of 40 m).
On leaving the Nollen, traverse a small plateau towards the west face of the Mönch. Cross the bergschrund at around 3740 m then climb the face, either heading east to emerge directly below the summit (4107 m), or along the left bank on the edge of the rocks to then follow the south-west ridge to the summit (beware of the cornice on the south-east side). The climb up the face is sustained on an average slope of 48° over 300 m.
By the east then south ridge (PD). The summit ridge is snowy and very airy. Follow it flat towards the east. At the junction of the north-east and south-east ridges, descend south-east on a steep slope that leads to a first rocky downclimb (good holds). Then the ridge alternates between snowy or rocky sections, with easy downclimbing, moderately airy.
- Rope (50 m)
- Ice screws (6 to 8), quickdraws (6x), slings, Abalakov hook
- Attempt: 25 July 1862 - Christian Almer, Hereford Brooke George, Adolphus Warburton Moore and 2 porters.
- 1st ascent: 13 July 1866 - Peter Egger, Edmund von Fellenberg, Christian Michel.
- 2nd ascent: 9 August 1871 - Fritz Bischoff, Peter Bohren (guide), Peter Egger (guide), Christian Michel Jr. (porter).
- 3rd ascent: 23 July 1872 - Jakob and Melchior Anderegg, Adolphus Warburton Moore.
- 1st descent: 24 August 1875 - Christian Almer, Christian Roth, Florence Thomas Wethered (after the 1st ascent of the south-west ridge).
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From the exit of the Sphinx gallery take the direction of the Mönchsjochhütte to gain the southeast ridge of the Mönch. Follow the ridge to the summit according to the C2C route.
Dettagli →From the Güggihütte (2791 m), traverse almost horizontally to the left (northeast) then climb the slope leading to the Mönchplateau by zigzagging trail traces marked with cairns.
Dettagli →From the Jungfraujoch, follow for 5 minutes the route of the Obers Mönchjoch. Bear left (north), gain the foot of the ridge by the bergschrund, directly left of a rock tower cut obliquely. Pass this tower on the right and follow on ice or snow the base of the rocks (20 m horizontally) until a paved…
Dettagli →La Mönchjochhütte, situata sulle roccie ad W dell’Obermönchjoch, si raggiunge in 45 min. dallo Jungfraujoch.
Dettagli →From the Jungfraujoch take the path leading to the Mönchjochhütte. Once under the south face of the Mönch, pass between the two séracs (to the right of the large sérac and to the left of the small sérac), carefully avoiding the crevasses. Once on the plateau (approx. 3750 m), cross it toward the…
Dettagli →Fonte: camptocamp.org · testo con licenza CC BY-SA 4.0
