Magic Stone — Pic Sans Nom, via alpinistica | Pick a Peak

Magic Stone

Pic Sans Nom · 3 913 m · Ecrins Massif · Francia

Tempo
12.5 h
Dislivello
1 555 m
Quota
1 874–3 429 m
Quota delle difficoltà
480 m
Grado alpinistico francese
TD+ molto difficile
FED4
Esposizione
N
Impegno
III
Attrezzatura in loco
P2
Arrampicata libera
6a

Descrizione

Storia della via

Apertura : julio de 1983 - Christian Ferrera, J.-Marie Rey.

Primera en solitario : 28 de junio de 1986 - O. Lesbros.

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Rifugi entro 10 km, pensioni e campeggi entro 5 km

Rifugi e alloggi nei dintorni

Dati © OpenStreetMap

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    Altre vie su Pic Sans Nom

    ↗ 1200 m

    Set off behind Pelvoux refuge 2700 m and follow the path leading to Sialouze glacier. Watch for serac falls from Clot de l'Homme glacier, traverse on the path then climb steep névé and steps leading to Sialouze glacier, traverse it flat towards the west (some crevasses possible in the…

    Dettagli →
    ↗ 1468 m

    From the Balme de François Blanc, gain the Glacier Noir, climb the sérac fall, then the glacier at the foot of the north-west couloir of Pic Sans Nom.

    Dettagli →
    ↗ 2039 m

    The Voie du Souvenir is equipped with numerous pitons, both in the pitches (especially the hard sections) and at the belay stations. Often at least 2 pitons are found at each belay. However, these should be tested as some are unreliable. Thus P2+ for the Voie du Souvenir.

    Dettagli →
    ↗ 2050 m

    From the Madame Carle meadow, first ascend the Glacier Blanc trail, then at the Glacier Noir fork take the moraine trail. At the end of the moraine, step onto the glacier and head towards the upper basin of Glacier Noir passing below the 3343 m bump of Coolidge (fixed rope in place). Head then to…

    Dettagli →
    ↗ 1555 m

    From Pré de Madame Carle, take the Glacier Blanc path then turn left to go up the moraine of Glacier Noir to the Balmes de François Blanc. Cross Glacier Noir then to its south branch and thus reach the base of the face slightly to the left of the snow cone opening from the Raie des Fesses. Reach by…

    Dettagli →
    Vedi tutte le vie

    Fonte: camptocamp.org · testo con licenza CC BY-SA 4.0